VOICES MAGAZINE PUSHPESH PANT G PARTHASARATHY ANAND NEELAKANTAN RAVI SHANKAR SHAMPA DHAR-KAMATH SADHGURU JAGGI VASUDEV BUFFET PEOPLE WELLNESS BOOKS FOOD ART & CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT NEW DELHI DECEMBER 9 2018 SUNDAY PAGES 12 Cool Weaves Layer with panache Natural fibres are trending this winter. Driven by a demand for familiarity, designers are going back to the roots and coming up with hand-spun textiles with an edgier and classier look. “Layering is a great idea because it adds versatility to a garment. It gives the wearer an opportunity to combine different fabric weights, textures, prints and weaves; bringing out each of their characteristics beautifully. Functionally it is great too, especially in winters.” Ruchi Tripathi (left) TEXTURE: Khadi cottons, mulberry khadi silk, light-weight Bengal khadis. USP: Fabrics are dyed in natural madder, indigo or syahi and also hand block-printed with traditional floral Sanganeri bootis. Besides use of Bihari ‘Sujani’ embroidery with fine tanka and tie and dye, and medium-weight chashme bulbul patterns from Himachal. By ANANDI PALIWAL W inter fashion is getting haute and hotter with natural fibres this season. Thanks to celebrities, designers and social media influencers, spotting the trend and sporting the chic look have never been so easy. Fashionistas are spoilt for choice as established labels are going back to the roots with eye-catching traditional silhouettes, patterns, textiles or techniques. Conscious or sustainable fashion is coming full circle to influence the ever-evolving design philosophy. The concept of fashion changing with the season came to India from the West. Till not very long ago, for many ‘winter fashion’ was considered as a waste of money and time as the season hardly lasts for a couple of months. But times change, so does fashion—and at breakneck speed. What earlier held the attention of the beau monde for a span of many months, is now out of favour in weeks. They are constantly looking out for something new, more mod and designers are stepping up to meet the fashion choices. These trends are subconsciously making wearers accept the indigenous varieties of silk, cotton and wool along with their blends and other natural fibres. They are also egging on the fashion-savvy to adapt to trans-seasonal, day-to-night dressing and gender-neutral concepts. BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER Layering is an art which many of us do not get right. This year, Amit Vijaya and Richard Pandav of Amrich have taken it up in a big way with overlays, capes and bomber jackets. Describing their collection, the partners say, “Our winter line has a lot of hand-woven wool, silk and blend of silk cotton. Along with these yarns we have tried woollen developments, double cloth, basket weave, besides space dyeing, hand pleating and hand-stitched resist dyeing. The double cloth with two layers is fuller and insulating, while the quilting of silk on wool, too, adds warmth to the layers.” This line, exclusively for women, offers a range of chic separates inspired by the nomads of the world. Its natural fibre textiles are prepped with design and handwoven patterning like ikat, shibori and appliqué to display a dramatic demeanour. For Lovebirds—a minimalistic label by Amrita Khanna and Gursi Singh—the emphasis is on East Asian everyday wear, along with neutral colour blocking and polka dots and stripes. From pyjamas, to culottes, or even gauchos, they’ve convincingly gone back to traditional silhouettes combining practicality with panache in hand woven silks, linens, merino wool and cotton poplins. Talking about their line, they say: “Linen is generally known to be a summer fabric, so we wanted to explore its versatility for the winter months. When combined with wool, it makes for a great transitional fabric, and is perfectly suited for layering during Indian winter. We like to include pieces that serve as functional layered styling in winter. And so, we have combined wool with different fabrics to make it more suitable. Silk too is added for a hint of sheen and to soften the wool with its texture.” For a DIY crash course in layering, begin with a cotton or silk shirt or dress. Then put on thin warm layers that could be tied up with broad belts or brooches for a return of the waist. This dressing works well for someone who intends on being stylishly on the move or is looking to cover the increasing girth in these fuzzy months with panache. THE ART IS IN THE DETAIL Rina Singh of Eka is all about the raw beauty of natural fibres. From weaving a flirtatious story, her brand’s ethos is shaped through textiles that translate into effortless style. “This year, we have hand-spun and hand-woven cotton (khadi) and linen, adding dexterity to our textile techniques. These fabrics were developed keeping in mind stripes, checks, borders and hand block prints,” she says. Using the rural Bengal weaving technique called ‘Kata Makur Kaj’ or the ‘Cut Shuttle’ from Shantipur of Nadia district and then merging the woollen, khadi and linen dresses with an endearing effect by ‘Sozani’ embroiderers of Kashmir, and hand block-printed with chintz patterns, she ended up conveying a coy vintage English country look. Similar yet unlike their contemporaries, Ruchi Tripathi and Jaya Bhatt of Indigene parlay with pleats, plaid and layering for an edgier and sharper look. Defining their style, they say, “We have further developed our khadi cottons in light and medium-weight along with our signature mulberry khadi silk. The light-weight Bengal khadis have bold checks with solid borders that segue into unfinished hemlines of the garment. Our fabrics dyed in natural madder, indigo or syahi are also hand blockprinted with traditional floral Sanganeri bootis. Bihari ‘Sujani’ embroidery with fine tanka forms the base for our medium-weight khadi jackets and overlays are further juxtaposed with tie and dye for a beautiful three-dimensional touch. At the same time, the mulberry khadi silks have geometric forms in monochrome colour schemes.” For their new launch, which focuses on a range of merino and yak wool garments, the duo has collaborated with Kullu weavers from Himachal Pradesh, using their medium-weight chashme bulbul patterns as placement border on naturally coloured wool with its selvedge. GO ORIGINAL WITH PATTERNS Making the most of many traditional designs is Injiri’s Fall Winter collection that portrays a mellowed sinister and rebellious imagery It is . inspired by stark black Turn to page 2 Invest in a second skin “Our new yak wool blend is a gorgeously textured fabric. It is durable, naturally coloured and above all has medicinal value, as specified in traditional Himalayan medicine system for healing bone and joint pain.” Jigmat Norbu and Jigmat Wangmo TEXTURE: The region’s best fibres and hair from its rich livestock of sheep, yak, goat, and camel for an exquisite quality of wool and pashmina. USP: The indigenous weaving technique, challi, is used to make the garment.
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